The Trans-Mongolian Railway: From Irkutsk to Moscow by Train
The Trans-Siberian Railway is one of those adventures that conjures up dreamy scenes of snowy tundras, exotic oriental cities, onion domed churches and fur-coat wrapped babushkas, all washed down with a few shots of vodka for good measure.
There’s something so whimsically enticing about it all - cosying up in a train carriage whilst being whisked across the barren expanse of Siberia and the Gobi Desert makes this trip a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
THE TRANS-MONGOLIAN RAILWAY PART THREE: IRKUTSK TO MOSCOW
After a few days exploring Siberia, it’s time to start heading west towards Moscow.
This third stage of the Trans-Mongolian Railway will head west from Russian Siberia to the opulent and intriguing capital of Moscow. Over three or four nights, immerse yourself amongst the locals and ride this epic railway across the wild expanse of the snow covered Siberia, Ural and Volga districts.
The section will cover booking tickets for the Irkutsk to Moscow leg, train carriage options, what to expect on train 43, overall costs for a trip on the Trans-Mongolian railway, and the basics of the Cyrillic alphabet, navigating the Moscow metro system and onwards travel from Moscow.
All the advice on this page is taken from my own planning and solo travel experience when I completed this journey at the beginning of March (aka, the depths of a Siberian winter)!
Siberian sunset
BOOKING TRAIN TICKETS FROM IRKUTSK TO MOSCOW
As train travel is the most common way for locals to move around their country, there are so many train options from Irkutsk to Moscow that it will be very easy to find one that fits your schedule.
The differences between the various trains options are:
available carriage types and cost
quantity of stops (and therefore, speed of the journey)
required departure day/time
The easiest way to book a domestic train within Russia is on the Russian Railway website - which now has an English language option! Rejoice!
Previously, it was necessary to either book a domestic ticket through an agency (which involved a markup) or to put in some serious effort to try and translate the Russian Railways website and hope you got things right. It was do-able using the Chrome translator plug-in, but extremely difficult on a mobile phone browser.
To make things extra complicated, up until 2018 the Russian Railway system operated the entire network on Moscow Time Zone, making it highly confusing when booking a train out of a city on the other side of Russia which is in a completely different time zone!
And finally, it also used to be necessary to book the tickets online and then pick-up a physical copy of the ticket from a self-service machine at the railway station before boarding the train.
Luckily nowadays things are a whole lot easier!
Along with the website now being available in English, the booking system now displays the local time for each location of departure/arrival (so no need to convert time zones!) and e-tickets are easily accessible in the Russian Railways app and just need to be checked by the carriage attendant when boarding. Also remember to have your passport handy as these need to be checked against your ticket - even though it’s only a domestic trip (lesson learned over here!).
Winter means snow covered platforms in Siberia
» REGIONAL TRAIN, SUCH AS TRAIN #43 OR #61
Unless you’re dead set on travelling on the famous Rossiya, chances are you’re more likely to travel on a regular regional train. With various options each day, there’s a higher chance of finding your preferred bunk at a lower price.
As a general rule, the higher the train number, the lower the quality and speed of the train.
ESSENTIAL DETAILS
Departs: Various daily - mine departed at 2am.
Duration: Each train varies by a few hours - the shortest trip takes just over 3 days 3 hours, the longest up to almost 4 whole days.
Arrives: +3 days at Yaroslavsky Station in Moscow.
Cost: Platzkart: 6,503₽ (NZ$125 / US$85), Second Class: 9,344₽ (NZ$180 / US$122), First Class: 25,318₽ (NZ$490 / US$330). Note: Winter 2022 prices.
OTHER OPTIONS
» ROSSIYA #1
A leg on the #1 Rossiya train can easily be booked on the Russian Railways website and these run almost daily.
It’s important to note that the Rossiya departs Irkutsk at about 4am in the morning, something to factor in to your decision as it’s definitely not the most convenient of the options departing from Irkutsk.
» THE TRANS-MONGOLIAN EXPRESS TRAIN #3 OR TRAIN #5
Specialist route trains such as the Trans-Mongolian Express #3 or Ulaanbaatar-Moscow Train #5 cannot be joined in Irkutsk (or other regional Russian stations), and as these only run once per week anyway, it’s usually a better option to pick one of the frequent regional trains. However, if you’re looking to meet up with other travellers for the camaraderie of the Trans-Siberian, look at getting a space on the Rossiya #1 which runs almost daily.
Please note that this article was written pre-covid, so please confirm current schedules on the RZD website.
For details on the Trans Mongolian Express train #3, see the first article in this series:
Read More: The Trans-Mongolian Railway: From Beijing to Ulaanbaatar by Train
Siberian larch for days
The Trans-Mongolian Route Map - from Irkutsk to Moscow
CARRIAGE OPTIONS IN RUSSIA
» FIRST CLASS
Featuring two-bunk rooms, first-class is the most spacious and private option on Russian trains, however these spaces are priced accordingly and are by far the most expensive option. These bunks also come with other nice-to-have’s such as some meals and a toiletry kit.
» SECOND CLASS (KUPE)
Featuring four-bunk rooms, second class private rooms are a step up from platzkart carriages. These carriages are very similar to the Trans-Mongolian style trains (ie. #4 train), where there is a corridor that runs the length of the carriage, with lockable rooms off the corridor. If you’re looking for a little more privacy, these rooms could be a good option - and there’s often a female only room available which provides a nice sense of security for any solo-female travellers.
If you’re travelling in a group of four, kupe would be also be a good option as you know who you’ll be locked in with!
» THIRD CLASS (PLATZKART)
Third Class (aka Platzkart) carriages are slightly different to those on the rest of the Trans-Mongolian route. Instead of the two-bed or four-bed rooms, these carriages are open-style. Instead of individual rooms, four bunks are located in a similar style to kupe carriages, but with bunks running along one side of the carriage with an open corridor in the middle of the carriage.
The cheapest option on a Russian regional train, these offer less privacy but if you’re looking to socialise, these would be your best bet. These carriages are also arguably safer than a lockable four-bed room - with people coming and going constantly, there will be many eyes looking out for you.
I personally travelled in platzkart for the Russian leg on my Tran-Mongolian journey. This was for a few reasons and I highly recommend it.
As a backpacker on a budget, this was the most cost effective option.
I wanted to experience some every-day local life - and platzkart is where the locals are at.
And if I were to complete this trip again, I’d do the same thing. I never felt unsafe in the open style carriage, and genuinely enjoyed being immersed in local Russian life. I also got to meet a wide range of folks that I would have been less likely to encounter in a higher class carriage.
Platzkart life on a Russian train
WHAT TO EXPECT ON A REGIONAL RUSSIAN TRAIN
» FACILITIES ON A REGIONAL TRAIN
BEDDING
Linen can be selected as an option when booking tickets for just an extra couple of dollars. In my experience the linen was fresh and clean, and a light blanket is provided. It’s highly unlikely that you’ll need any more blankets - Russian trains are kept really warm so you’re more likely to over-heat than be cold!
POWER OUTLETS
Platzkart carriages only have a few outlets to share amongst all the occupiers so this is the time you’ll need a fully charged power bank. Alternatively, make friends with someone in first or second class and borrow one of their spare plugs. There is no wifi available on the trains, however 3G/4G coverage is possible along the route (expect it to be patchy though).
WC/BATHROOM/RESTROOMS
Bathrooms/toilets are located at the end of each carriage, and with platzkart carriages undergoing refurbishments, it looks like drop-toilets are now a thing of the past! All platzkart carriages should now have modern flushing WCs!
HOT WATER
As per all trains on the Trans-Mongolian route, even platzkart carriages have a samovar (aka a hot water machine) in each. This simple piece of equipment will become your new best friend, providing the means to prepare coffee, tea or hot chocolate and most importantly, instant noodles - all the necessities of an overnight train adventure!
THE RESTAURANT CARRIAGE
Not all Russian trains have a restaurant carriage, so unless it was listed on the booking, be prepared for a few cups of soup and instant noodles and check out the platform vendors instead. If the train notes ‘ extra catering available’, it’s likely that the train will have either a restaurant car or an option to buy hot meals.
» PROVODNITSAS
Provodnitsa is the russian name for train conductors. These are the attendants that will check your boarding ticket, supply your linen (and make up your bed), keep the toilets clean, make sure the samovar is filled and keep on eye on you when you jump off the train to stretch your legs on a platform - and give you a shout if you’re cutting it too fine and need to quickly jump back on board again!
Basically, provodnitsas keep the carriage in order and make everything run smoothly!
» STATION PLATFORMS
One of the most fun things about a multi-day train journey is discovering new things at each of the station platforms along the way. Each train should display the intended stops (and timeframes) within the carriage, otherwise download/save a copy off the Russian Railways app.
Sometimes the train stops for barely five minutes in some of the smaller villages, whereas at some of the larger stations such as Omsk, you could have up to an hour to explore. Just remember to check when the train departs to avoid being left behind, or worse, having your provodnitsa yell down the platform at you!
After sitting in carriage for hours on end - a longer stop is a great chance to stretch the legs and take in some fresh air! I took to running up and down a few flights of stairs on the platform for a bit of exercise (and to keep warm - siberian russia is cold!). They were also a good viewpoint for the comings and goings of the train stations.
The platforms are a great opportunity to see how Russian train life ticks, like the coal being driven along the platform and then shovelled onto the train when a refill was needed, the layering of clothes for those jumping off, and the shedding of clothes for those arriving; the families, babushkas, a couple and their dog. The trains really are a melting pot of Russian society.
Hopping off for a quick look around a platform also serves another purpose - food! Along with all the pre-packaged staples available for sale at small kiosks, the larger stations have vendors selling freshly prepared hot food, or local produce and specialities. I can highly recommend the smoked fish when you’re stopping near Baikal!
» WHAT TO DO ON A MULTI-DAY JOURNEY
Read, listen to music, watch a show or write an update for the fam! There’s definitely plenty of time to relax on a train for three days!
Popping on a pair of headphones also helps with one of the other aspects of Russian train life - they usually have music playing for a lot of the day. I found it rather, um, entertaining, as it wasn't nice relaxing music, it was like they were trying to start a dance party in the middle of the day.
I often found myself bopping my head as I lay on my bed reading my book, though it got a bit annoying late at night when trying to sleep and it hadn’t been switched off yet.
And if you’re really bored and looking for something to do - try and keep track of the everchanging time zones (seriously, there were five)!
Reloading those fossil fuels - the trains engines are electrified but the heating system is not.
OVERALL COSTS FOR THE TRANS-MONGOLIAN RAILWAY
My costs for visas, trains and food are as follows, with prices current as at January 2022. Visa costs are based on a New Zealand citizen applying for the visas while based in New Zealand, and as you can see, the need for three visas contributes a lot to the cost of a Trans-Mongolian Railway journey!
The costs below represent the minimum required for the Trans-Mongolian Railway, when choosing the lowest class carriage options and travelling over the winter (out of peak season). It would be difficult to complete this journey much cheaper, but it would be easy to spend a bit more for higher class carriages or trains - or if booking through online agencies.
These costs don’t include any transport to/from the railway stations or any expenses in any of the stopovers (accommodation, food, entertainment, activities, transport) - as these are likely to vary significantly based on individual preferences. A few days in Beijing or Ulaanbaatar will be a lot less expensive than a few days in Moscow or St Petersburg, which are notoriously expensive places to visit.
» Visas & Entry Documentation Costs (for a NZ citizen):
China NZ$155 (US$105)
Mongolia NZ$170 (US$115)
Russia NZ$120 (US$82)
Russia Letter of Invitation NZ$30 (US$20)
Total: NZ$445 (US$222)
» Train Tickets Costs:
Beijing to Ulaanbaatar: Hard sleeper 4-berth NZ$390 ($US265)
Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk: 4-berth sleeper NZ$41 ($US28)
Irkutsk to Moscow: platzkart third class sleeper NZ$125 ($US85)
Total: NZ$556 (US$378)
» Indicative Food & Beverage Costs:
Supplies from a supermarket in Beijing: NZ$10 (US$7) + some food from home in NZ.
Restaurant carriage from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar: one meal included in the train ticket.
Supplies from a supermarket in Ulaanbaatar: NZ$10 (US$7).
Supplies from a supermarket in Irkutsk & items on the platforms: NZ$15 (US$10)
Food of course is very much an individual choice and costs are likely to vary a lot, however in general, supermarket food and supplies are very cheap. Note that I am quite a light eater.
Total: NZ$35+ (US$25+)
Total Cost for 9 days aboard the Trans-Mongolian Trains from Beijing to Moscow*:
NZ$1036 (US$625)
*Excluding any costs associated with stopovers, including transport to railway stations.
Explore the railway stations on longer stops
THE CYRILLIC ALPHABET
Whilst learning a little of the local language goes a long way in any country, learning the Cyrillic alphabet for travelling to Russia will definitely pay off!
It makes reading signage (looking at you, Moscow Metro) a whole lot easier, and you’ll be surprised at how many words are familiar once you recognise the characters!
For example, you’re likely to see this word a lot: кафе
The unfamiliar letter used in this word, ‘ф’, is the cyrillic character for ‘F’.
Therefore, кафе can easily be pronounced like a word we all recognise: cafe!
As I was going to be travelling around a few eastern european countries on the same trip, I packed a copy of the Lonely Planet Eastern Europe Phrasebook & Dictionary which was worth it’s weight in gold for learning the pronunciation and basic phrases, however simply saving a copy of the alphabet and translation off the internet will still go a long way!
Can you translate this Cyrillic sign? In latin characters, it’s Omsk.
ARRIVING IN MOSCOW AND NAVIGATING THE METRO SYSTEM
» THE MOSCOW METRO
Of all the places in the world to wing your way from the railway station to your hostel, Moscow is probably not the one to choose. Notoriously confusing, the system needs a bit of a game plan, however signage has improved in recent years.
Before arriving in Moscow, take note of a few things - the name of your destination station (in Cyrillic), the name of the line (in Cyrillic), the last station on the line (in Cyrillic), and importantly, the number of stops (stations) between your beginning and destination stations.
Why?
Firstly, the signage doesn’t always display all the stations along a route (your destination might not be listed on the sign), so you often need to know the final stop on the line to know which way you’re going. The signage is often only shown in Cyrillic characters.
Secondly, once you’re on the train, it can be really difficult to know which station you’re pulling in to as signage on some platforms is so hard to see from inside the train - therefore count the stops to know where you’re at!
It’s also important to know what exit to take out of the station - some of the bigger, busier stations such as Kitai-Gorod have over 10 exits! Your accommodation should provide details on the best exit to use, if not, there are now maps of the local area available in the train stations.
The Moscow metro system has many positives however!
What it might lack in usability, it definitely makes up for it in beauty - in fact some stations, such as Mayakovskaya, look more like a ballroom or art gallery rather than a bustling transport station.
The system is also extremely efficient and with so many stations covering the system, it’s really easy to get around and you’ll never be far from any of Moscow’s famous sights.
» EXPLORE MOSCOW
Moscow is one of the most fascinating cities in the world, from iconic features like the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral, to thought-provoking historical KGB tours, you’ll need more than a fews days to see everything the capital of Russia has to offer.
Read More: Explore Moscow: Incredible things to do in the Russian capital (coming soon)
Time to explore with the incredible Moscow metro network
WHERE TO NEXT
Whilst Moscow might be the ‘official’ start or end of the Trans-Siberian Railway, there’s plenty of options to continue onwards via the railways. From another fascinating city in Russia, to one of the neighbouring countries, here are some suggestions on where to go next.
» ST PETERSBURG
This opulent port city is the northern centre for Russian culture, architecture and history. Get a glimpse into the beauty and wealth of Russian nobility in the incredible palaces, fortress and churches of this must visit city or grab an ice-cream and stroll down Nevsky Prospekt a la Tatiana in The Bronze Horseman.
Read More: Explore St Petersburg in Winter (coming soon)
» EASTERN EUROPE
With many rail links to neighbouring countries, Moscow is the perfect launching pad to Eastern Europe. Continue the rail journey through to Ukraine, Belarus, the Baltics (Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia), or even up to Finland and Scandinavia.
» THE ‘STANS
Rather than continuing west, why not head South and take in Central Asia and the great Silk Road. From Moscow, head down to Kazakhstan from where there are many overland routes through Kyrgyzstan, Tajikstan, Uzbekistan andTurkmenistan, and then over the Caspian Sea to the Caucasus beyond.
Don’t Forget Your Departure Date
Wherever you head, be sure to exit Russia before the date noted in your visa. For more details on sorting a Russian visa, see the second article in this series:
Read More: The Trans-Mongolian Railway: From Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk by Train
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